Dezhou – Jinan (125 km)

While I had seen a few other recreational cyclists the day before (about 5), today I actually spoke to one on my way out of Dezhou. He was a middle-aged Chinese man, cycling with his wife. They both had the exact same model of bike that I did and were both wearing helmets (only serious cyclists in China wear helmets). He told me he was from Dezhou, and seemed surprised when I told him that I intended to go to Shanghai, mainly because it was so far.

Later on in the morning, a young guy rode up next to me and began talking. He was going to visit his grandparents in a nearby village and invited me to join him. Intrigued at the idea of visiting a house in a rural village, I accepted. His name was Wu and he had just finished the university entrance exam and was waiting for his results. He hoped to study finance in Harbin. His village was pleasant enough. I first went with him to his uncle’s house, which had been modernized and had a fridge and nice white painted walls. His grandparents lived in an older building that had never been renovated and looked very peasant-like. A big jar on the table contained several gingko roots and a huge Kang bed was located in the dining room. Wu offered me lunch, and while I initially declined saying that it would be too inconvenient, he seemed insistent, so I had a simple lunch of fried ride and watermelon with him.
I didn’t stay too long, as I wanted to make sure that I wouldn’t arrive too late in Jinan. I gave him a US $1 bill as thanks for his hospitality.

About twenty minutes later, as I took a short break on the side of the road, I saw Wu ride up to me. He had come looking for me because he wanted to give me something. He took out five ancient Chinese coins. He said they were from the Tang and Qing dynasties and that his grandmother had given to him. I initially refused to take them, but he said that he felt I would value them more than him because I had studied history. I reluctantly took them, even though I did indeed really want them. The kindness of the Chinese people I have met continues to surprise and delight me.