Hotels in China and the Police: A Cautionary Tale

In mid-July I visited Li Shuai in his hometown of Changchun in Northeast China, and then took a two day trip down south back to Beijing. The first night I stayed in a youth hostel in Shenyang that was very cheap, only 60 RMB a night ($9). The following day, I visited two towns by bus before taking a train to Xingcheng, a walled historical town on the coast of the Bohai Sea. I arrived after 8PM, and was concerned about finding accommodation, so I asked a taxi to take me to a hotel that would cost in between 100 and 200 RMB. The taxi driver took me to a hotel that was in the right price range. I checked out a room and thought it was adequate (although overpriced for what it was at 150 RMB per night).

Next, I began the check in process. I handed over my passport and paid the fee. But, there seemed to be a problem. The hotel had a machine to register the guests, and my information wasn’t being accepted. One of the helpful girls suggested we go to the police station to sort things out. I reluctantly agreed. At the police station, I was informed that there was only one hotel that foreigners were allowed to stay in Xingcheng, an old hotel that would cost 300 RMB a night! I was not willing to spend that much money, so I complained to the police officers. After about half an hour of discussion between me, the hotel clerk and the police, they finally relented. I had convinced them that the foreigner-approved hotel was too expensive. They were making an exception for me and would let me stay in the cheaper hotel!

My second police encounter took place a few days ago in an obscure town in Henan called Sanmenxia. I arrived at about 4:30 and found a perfectly adequate hotel next to the train station for 80 RMB a night, including an internet connection. Of course, when I showed them my passport, the problems began. The receptionist had to talk to her boss, who ten called the police. I was informed that I could only stay in one foreigner approved hotel in town. I was very annoyed. I didn’t want to go to the hassle of going to another hotel. Some of the other people waiting in the lobby agreed with me, so I asked the receptionist to accompany me to the police station so I could have a talk with the police.

At the police station, I waited for a short while before the policeman in charge came out to talk to me. He was very friendly, and I explained that I didn’t want to spend a night in an expensive hotel. He seemed unwilling to compromise though, and told me that the foreigner hotel wasn’t actually that expensive, maybe only 150 RMB a night. For that price, I decided to give up. There was no point in arguing anymore. The police were nice enough to drive me to the hotel as well. It turns out the hotel was only 100 RMB a night for a very nice room. I’m not sure if the low price was because the police were there with me. Anyway, this story had a happy ending, but if I continue going to obscure towns in China, I’m sure that this won’t be my last run in with the police.