In mid-July I visited Li Shuai in his hometown of Changchun in Northeast China, and then took a two day trip down south back to Beijing. The first night I stayed in a youth hostel in Shenyang that was very cheap, only 60 RMB a night ($9). The following day, I visited two towns by bus before taking a train to Xingcheng, a walled historical town on the coast of the Bohai Sea. I arrived after 8PM, and was concerned about finding accommodation, so I asked a taxi to take me to a hotel that would cost in between 100 and 200 RMB. The taxi driver took me to a hotel that was in the right price range. I checked out a room and thought it was adequate (although overpriced for what it was at 150 RMB per night).
Next, I began the check in process. I handed over my passport and paid the fee. But, there seemed to be a problem. The hotel had a machine to register the guests, and my information wasn’t being accepted. One of the helpful girls suggested we go to the police station to sort things out. I reluctantly agreed. At the police station, I was informed that there was only one hotel that foreigners were allowed to stay in Xingcheng, an old hotel that would cost 300 RMB a night! I was not willing to spend that much money, so I complained to the police officers. After about half an hour of discussion between me, the hotel clerk and the police, they finally relented. I had convinced them that the foreigner-approved hotel was too expensive. They were making an exception for me and would let me stay in the cheaper hotel!
My second police encounter took place a few days ago in an obscure town in Henan called Sanmenxia. I arrived at about 4:30 and found a perfectly adequate hotel next to the train station for 80 RMB a night, including an internet connection. Of course, when I showed them my passport, the problems began. The receptionist had to talk to her boss, who ten called the police. I was informed that I could only stay in one foreigner approved hotel in town. I was very annoyed. I didn’t want to go to the hassle of going to another hotel. Some of the other people waiting in the lobby agreed with me, so I asked the receptionist to accompany me to the police station so I could have a talk with the police.
At the police station, I waited for a short while before the policeman in charge came out to talk to me. He was very friendly, and I explained that I didn’t want to spend a night in an expensive hotel. He seemed unwilling to compromise though, and told me that the foreigner hotel wasn’t actually that expensive, maybe only 150 RMB a night. For that price, I decided to give up. There was no point in arguing anymore. The police were nice enough to drive me to the hotel as well. It turns out the hotel was only 100 RMB a night for a very nice room. I’m not sure if the low price was because the police were there with me. Anyway, this story had a happy ending, but if I continue going to obscure towns in China, I’m sure that this won’t be my last run in with the police.
Wednesday 1 September 2010
Monday 30 August 2010
Chinese Hotels
I’ve travelled in China extensively and have had the opportunity to stay in hotels that range from ultra-luxurious to filthy and disgusting. China has a huge range of hotels available particularly in larger cities, where western amenities are commonplace. Most tourists to China will stay in these hotels. But as a careful observer will notice just driving around Beijing – there seems to be tons of hotels everywhere that have strange names, like Traffic Hotel or Petroleum hotel. What are these places like? What are Chinese-style hotels like?
I can answer both of these questions. In my view there are three types of ‘Chinese-style’ hotel: the dirt cheap, the tries to be nice but ends up strange, and the new breed of western-style hotels.
Let us begin with the dirt cheap. I have had the opportunity to stay in a few cheapies in China. These hotels are typically next to train stations and have no private bathroom. They have concrete floors, dirty linens and public bathrooms with no partitions between the stalls that may or may not have ever been cleaned. They are typically about $5 a night.
The second type, and most common, is the ‘tries to be nice but is strange’ type. These are often new hotels, perhaps only a few years old, but they still are badly designed. Most of the poor design decisions involve the bathroom. In a hotel in Shuozhou for instance, the bathroom actually had a shower stall, but there was no place to put any of the toiletries except on the floor! In a hotel in Xinzhou, the toilet was located to close to the sink so when I sat on the toilet one leg was pressed up against the sink. Hot water often seems to be an issue. In Datong, a hotel just had scalding hot water! There was no cold water at all! Toilets often don’t flush correctly, rarely is there a shower partition and cleanliness can be a problem. These kinds of places also like to have ‘ladies’ call you late at night offering ‘messages’. Is that a euphemism for something else? I don’t know because I have always turned them down. However, the sleeping area of these places is often quite reasonable, there is always air conditioning offered and they may even offer internet access. These places typically cost from about $10-25 a night
The third type is a new type of budget hotel that is increasingly being found in the large cities. Home Inn and Jinjiang Hotels are leading this model. These hotels all offer a similar standard of rooms. Basically, they would be the equivalent of a motel-type accommodation in the west. Basic, but clean and reasonably designed. Free internet access is available in all rooms. These are about $25-40 a night.
I can answer both of these questions. In my view there are three types of ‘Chinese-style’ hotel: the dirt cheap, the tries to be nice but ends up strange, and the new breed of western-style hotels.
Let us begin with the dirt cheap. I have had the opportunity to stay in a few cheapies in China. These hotels are typically next to train stations and have no private bathroom. They have concrete floors, dirty linens and public bathrooms with no partitions between the stalls that may or may not have ever been cleaned. They are typically about $5 a night.
The second type, and most common, is the ‘tries to be nice but is strange’ type. These are often new hotels, perhaps only a few years old, but they still are badly designed. Most of the poor design decisions involve the bathroom. In a hotel in Shuozhou for instance, the bathroom actually had a shower stall, but there was no place to put any of the toiletries except on the floor! In a hotel in Xinzhou, the toilet was located to close to the sink so when I sat on the toilet one leg was pressed up against the sink. Hot water often seems to be an issue. In Datong, a hotel just had scalding hot water! There was no cold water at all! Toilets often don’t flush correctly, rarely is there a shower partition and cleanliness can be a problem. These kinds of places also like to have ‘ladies’ call you late at night offering ‘messages’. Is that a euphemism for something else? I don’t know because I have always turned them down. However, the sleeping area of these places is often quite reasonable, there is always air conditioning offered and they may even offer internet access. These places typically cost from about $10-25 a night
The third type is a new type of budget hotel that is increasingly being found in the large cities. Home Inn and Jinjiang Hotels are leading this model. These hotels all offer a similar standard of rooms. Basically, they would be the equivalent of a motel-type accommodation in the west. Basic, but clean and reasonably designed. Free internet access is available in all rooms. These are about $25-40 a night.
Sunday 29 August 2010
Linfen: The Most Polluted City in the World?
Today I am spending the night in a city called Linfen, just south of Pingyao. Why would I spend a night here? Well, it is in between Pingyao and Henan, my next destination, but that is not the primary reason I’m here. No, I’m here because of an article I read a few years ago in the Guardian that described Linfen as the ‘most polluted city in the world’ and that it ‘rained ash’ and it was ‘hell on earth’. Who wouldn’t be intrigued by these apocalyptic descriptions?
The sky was quite overcast and slightly rainy as the train approached Linfen. There were many heaps of coal next to the railway. When I arrived in Linfen, I found a city that looked like most other Chinese cities: unattractive, but mostly functional. A lot of construction was going on, and traffic was bad. Apart from it being quite smoggy, I could see no evidence of Linfen being any more polluted than other Chinese cities. I told my cab driver that I had heard about Linfen in the western press because of the pollution, and he laughed and said that was right. But, at least today it was not ‘raining ash’.
The sky was quite overcast and slightly rainy as the train approached Linfen. There were many heaps of coal next to the railway. When I arrived in Linfen, I found a city that looked like most other Chinese cities: unattractive, but mostly functional. A lot of construction was going on, and traffic was bad. Apart from it being quite smoggy, I could see no evidence of Linfen being any more polluted than other Chinese cities. I told my cab driver that I had heard about Linfen in the western press because of the pollution, and he laughed and said that was right. But, at least today it was not ‘raining ash’.
Saturday 14 August 2010
Yingxian
I had already been to Yingxian last year to see the Muta, but I returned because I wanted to see a lesser known sight – Jingtu Temple. When I first went to Yingxian I did not visit the temple because I did not realize its architectural significance. After reading an entire paper about it, I decided that I should definitely go and see it.
Arriving at 4:30, I decided to pay too much for a taxi as I was concerned that I would not get to the temple before it closed. After a short journey through the dirt roads of hutongs to the east of the Muta, I saw a grand old building from a distance in between two decrepit houses. The temple is very small – consisting of just one main hall. An article about the temple explains that only one hall survived the Cultural Revolution. I wonder how large it was before? I was pleased to discover that the temple was indeed still open, but disappointed that the hall was locked! I asked an old man about it and he said I couldn’t go in. Later on the helpful taxi driver also talked to the man who clarified that the master of the temple was taking part in service (the chanting voices that I could hear from behind the hall) and that the hall would be opened for this service at 6:00 PM. I did not want to wait around. I really did not want to spend the night in Yingxian. So, I took the taxi back to the bus station and got the evening bus to Shuozhou.
Yingxian is a rather interesting town. Unlike some other towns with important cultural monuments (such as the two Yixians), Yingxian has made an effort to build traditional style building. The entire area around the Muta is traditional style, which is nice. I sincerely hope that they don’t build any tall buildings in the town. The Muta has been the tallest for nearly a thousand years, and I hope it remains as such.
Arriving at 4:30, I decided to pay too much for a taxi as I was concerned that I would not get to the temple before it closed. After a short journey through the dirt roads of hutongs to the east of the Muta, I saw a grand old building from a distance in between two decrepit houses. The temple is very small – consisting of just one main hall. An article about the temple explains that only one hall survived the Cultural Revolution. I wonder how large it was before? I was pleased to discover that the temple was indeed still open, but disappointed that the hall was locked! I asked an old man about it and he said I couldn’t go in. Later on the helpful taxi driver also talked to the man who clarified that the master of the temple was taking part in service (the chanting voices that I could hear from behind the hall) and that the hall would be opened for this service at 6:00 PM. I did not want to wait around. I really did not want to spend the night in Yingxian. So, I took the taxi back to the bus station and got the evening bus to Shuozhou.
Yingxian is a rather interesting town. Unlike some other towns with important cultural monuments (such as the two Yixians), Yingxian has made an effort to build traditional style building. The entire area around the Muta is traditional style, which is nice. I sincerely hope that they don’t build any tall buildings in the town. The Muta has been the tallest for nearly a thousand years, and I hope it remains as such.
Hengshan (North)
Hengshan is unusual for a Chinese sacred mountain. For some reason it doesn’t get as much attention as any of the other eight mountains. It is unmentioned in the lonely planet and in other travel guides. This is particularly mysterious as it is located right next to the very famous Hanging Temple, to the south of Datong. I was concerned that it would be uninteresting because of this omission, but thankfully I was wrong. Hengshan is in fact very beautiful. The difference between it and the other mountains I’ve been to is that it is quite small and you can’t climb to the peak. Nevertheless, there is a climb involved and there are at least ten beautiful temples built onto the sides of cliffs. Because of its small size I was able to finish the mountain in an hour and a half. Slower people could easily take double that amount of time.
On the way down from Hengshan, the taxi and I encountered a terrible traffic jam. There is a tunnel in the road and today – of all days – road work was being done in the tunnel. Only one lane of traffic was open. Of course, being obnoxious drivers, many people tried to pass the cars waiting by using the opposite lane. This was started by one horrible driver of a black Buick who had sirens and went into the other lane. Since all the cars were stationary going in his direction when he met oncoming traffic, he tried to turn into the correct lane but wasn’t able too. Many other cars followed his example and after fifteen minutes of honking all of these cars had to back up. I was more and more concerned about time. It took about an hour to get back down to the bus station, and I caught a 3:30 bus to Yingxian.
On the way down from Hengshan, the taxi and I encountered a terrible traffic jam. There is a tunnel in the road and today – of all days – road work was being done in the tunnel. Only one lane of traffic was open. Of course, being obnoxious drivers, many people tried to pass the cars waiting by using the opposite lane. This was started by one horrible driver of a black Buick who had sirens and went into the other lane. Since all the cars were stationary going in his direction when he met oncoming traffic, he tried to turn into the correct lane but wasn’t able too. Many other cars followed his example and after fifteen minutes of honking all of these cars had to back up. I was more and more concerned about time. It took about an hour to get back down to the bus station, and I caught a 3:30 bus to Yingxian.
Tuesday 29 June 2010
Laiyuan
During a picturesque bus ride through the mountains and rural countryside, I began to notice a layer of smog and a flattening of the landscape. We had arrived in Laiyuan, an isolated town in Western Hebei. I wanted to come here to see Geyuan Temple which contains one of the oldest wooden buildings in China, dating from 966 CE. I was not impressed with towns wall-to-wall white tile buildings. I did notice that behind these ghastly pieces of architecture, there still existed some traditional hutongs. I doubt they would be there for much longer. Even Geyuan temple wasn’t hemmed in by a buffer zone of traditional architecture. It was there on its own, powerless in the white-tile onslaught.
Two of the temple’s three buildings were under renovation. Thankfully, the Wenshu Hall (the building from 966) was not under renovation and could be visited. The building was definitely in need of restoration, as it featured fading paint, sagging timber, and murals that were covered in white plaster. Overall the temple was a disappointment. With two of the buildings under renovation, it didn’t have a good feeling too it. Perhaps when the renovations are finished, the temple will be worth visiting.
Two of the temple’s three buildings were under renovation. Thankfully, the Wenshu Hall (the building from 966) was not under renovation and could be visited. The building was definitely in need of restoration, as it featured fading paint, sagging timber, and murals that were covered in white plaster. Overall the temple was a disappointment. With two of the buildings under renovation, it didn’t have a good feeling too it. Perhaps when the renovations are finished, the temple will be worth visiting.
Monday 21 June 2010
Yuxian
This small town is located in Western Hebei, just north of Laiyuan over a beautiful mountain road. Descending to the plain upon which Yuxian sits, a familiar landscape of dusty roads and ugly buildings returns. After ugly Laiyuan, I was not expecting much from Yuxian, the dusty town that greeted me at the bus station seemed to reinforce my expectations. However, once taken into the old town, I discovered that hidden behind the ugly new town outside, Yuxian still had an interesting old town.
I researched Yuxian prior to coming as I did the rest of my off-the-beaten track destinations. I have a Chinese Hebei travel book which I looked at, and I also consulted photos that people had uploaded to Google Earth. The most interesting site that Yuxian had to offer was called the Jade Emperor Pavillion (玉皇阁). When I asked the three-wheel car driver to take me there from the bus station, he didn’t even know where it was, which tells you how many people visit the place. It was up a dusty alley fringed with old hutongs, built into the old city wall. Dating from the 14th century, it is a two story pavilion and a few outbuildings. I’m not sure what the purpose was, but it seems that it was some sort of temple. I did encounter two other tourists there, both of them from Beijing and about to return.
I spent the rest of my time in Yuxian’s old town walking around to various points of interest. A temple near the pavilion was closed, but I did get to see the drum tower, a pagoda surrounded by hutongs and a temple that had been converted into a museum. Besides these key sites, I also enjoyed the old architecture of Yuxian. I truly hope that the local government tries to preserve what they have. If done correctly, I could see Yuxian becoming a successful site like Pingyao, although it would take at least ten years to develop the requisite infrastructure to accomplish this.
Returning to the bus station, I was incredibly surprised to see a group of four foreigners! Never did I expect to see foreigners in an isolated place like Yuxian. It turns out they were doing a Chinese immersion summer program and had come here as part of their studies. Yuxian truly surprised me, and I just hope that other people might also discover its hidden charms.
I researched Yuxian prior to coming as I did the rest of my off-the-beaten track destinations. I have a Chinese Hebei travel book which I looked at, and I also consulted photos that people had uploaded to Google Earth. The most interesting site that Yuxian had to offer was called the Jade Emperor Pavillion (玉皇阁). When I asked the three-wheel car driver to take me there from the bus station, he didn’t even know where it was, which tells you how many people visit the place. It was up a dusty alley fringed with old hutongs, built into the old city wall. Dating from the 14th century, it is a two story pavilion and a few outbuildings. I’m not sure what the purpose was, but it seems that it was some sort of temple. I did encounter two other tourists there, both of them from Beijing and about to return.
I spent the rest of my time in Yuxian’s old town walking around to various points of interest. A temple near the pavilion was closed, but I did get to see the drum tower, a pagoda surrounded by hutongs and a temple that had been converted into a museum. Besides these key sites, I also enjoyed the old architecture of Yuxian. I truly hope that the local government tries to preserve what they have. If done correctly, I could see Yuxian becoming a successful site like Pingyao, although it would take at least ten years to develop the requisite infrastructure to accomplish this.
Returning to the bus station, I was incredibly surprised to see a group of four foreigners! Never did I expect to see foreigners in an isolated place like Yuxian. It turns out they were doing a Chinese immersion summer program and had come here as part of their studies. Yuxian truly surprised me, and I just hope that other people might also discover its hidden charms.
Saturday 15 May 2010
The infamous Beijing penis restaurant
In an article published on the BBC website about five years ago, the reporter went to a restaurant in Beijing that specialized in penis. With vivid descriptions, the article describes how penis is served and who eats it. Since I am very interested in food, this article retained a place in my mind. Now that I am in Beijing, I thought that there would be no better time than to follow in the reporter’s footsteps and dine on dick.
Despite sounding truly repulsive, many people that I know were also interested in tasting the delights of penis. I managed to get seven people to join me on this culinary adventure, including two girls!
The restaurant was quite small and did not have a main dining room, but rather four private rooms. Besides our room, there was one room filled with middle-aged Chinese men. No doubt they were interested in the reputed aphrodisiac qualities of penis.
To my great disappointment, only four of us ate anything. The others were merely curious and wanted a look. Our meal began with a cold dish of bull and sheep penis with a delightful vinegary sauce. The bull penis was quite meaty, but the sheep penis had been made into a headcheese type thing and sliced, and was truly repulsive.
Our second course was sheep penis kebabs. It was presented beautifully with a wax sculpture to accompany the dicks. The penises had been sliced in half and lovingly threaded along skewers. Despite reservations, I took a bite and tasted something tough, chewy and disgusting. It was almost gooey like some sort of perverse candy. I nearly gagged on the second bite. By that point everyone had had enough, so we left satisfied that we had tried one of China’s greatest global culinary contributions.
Despite sounding truly repulsive, many people that I know were also interested in tasting the delights of penis. I managed to get seven people to join me on this culinary adventure, including two girls!
The restaurant was quite small and did not have a main dining room, but rather four private rooms. Besides our room, there was one room filled with middle-aged Chinese men. No doubt they were interested in the reputed aphrodisiac qualities of penis.
To my great disappointment, only four of us ate anything. The others were merely curious and wanted a look. Our meal began with a cold dish of bull and sheep penis with a delightful vinegary sauce. The bull penis was quite meaty, but the sheep penis had been made into a headcheese type thing and sliced, and was truly repulsive.
Our second course was sheep penis kebabs. It was presented beautifully with a wax sculpture to accompany the dicks. The penises had been sliced in half and lovingly threaded along skewers. Despite reservations, I took a bite and tasted something tough, chewy and disgusting. It was almost gooey like some sort of perverse candy. I nearly gagged on the second bite. By that point everyone had had enough, so we left satisfied that we had tried one of China’s greatest global culinary contributions.
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